The Viscountess of Viscose
On viscose, garment steamers, and cleaning jobs we ~hate~
Hello !
I have to tell you, your article about steaming fabric was the most informative piece I have read. I did keep it for a reference for myself. However, I do have a question to ask you: I just got a two piece dressy pants suit for our granddaughter's wedding that’s made of 98% polyester and 2% viscose. How would I steam this fabric? It is quite wrinkled and I am wondering what your thoughts would be. I have a stand steamer, it works great but it only has one steamer setting … any suggestions would be helpful
Every time I encounter viscose, I think to myself how funny it would be called "The Viscountess of Viscose," because I read too much historical fiction, probably. I have nowhere to say that, so I'm saying it here. Thank you for listening!
The answer to this question is that there are two options, and because we love options I'm going to share them first then get into a whole thing about viscose AND THEN get into a whole thing about cleaning jobs we hate because I think that will be fun for all of us!
The first option is to send the suit to be professionally pressed, and the second is to steam it using a handheld steamer, or a steam iron. I don't think the latter is the best choice, for two reasons: 1. Because this outfit is for a special occasion — and a granddaughter’s wedding is certainly a special occasion! We do love a wedding!! — I would strongly recommend sending it to the dry cleaner to be professionally pressed. Machine pressing or hand pressing a suit typically costs less than $15, and your suit will look perfect. 2. Because, while you can steam viscose, it will sometimes react badly to the steam and also because … OH MY GOD YOU GUYS I HATE STEAMING FABRIC SO SO SO MUCH.
God, it feels so good to admit that.
But! If you don't go into a blind rage at the mere sight of a steamer, then steaming a viscose blend garment is perfectly fine, just follow The Rules of Viscose I'll lay out for you below. But first, let's get into some basics of the fabric. I may do this as a little series on different fabrics, and won't it be fun for us all to have me shouting at you about denims and terry cloths!
Understanding Viscose
Viscose is a synthetic fabric that is made from (brace yourselves!) cellulose, the stuff that a lot of our anxiety-inducing sponges are made from. Fun fact about cellulose: It's a natural material, and it is biodegradable! (Without going too, too much into the sponges because we could literally be here all year talking about the sponges, many "cellulose" sponges are mixed with polyfill or plastic, which will outlive us all. Those are the sponges that are making you worry.)
But back to viscose. Though it's made from a natural fiber, it is considered a synthetic fabric because it is chemically manufactured. (Technically speaking I believe viscose is a "semi-synthetic" but I feel the people in charge of the fabric care lexicon have gone too far! We don't need this level of parsing!)
Viscose is often used to line garments, as in the case of LW's pants suit, and for a synthetic fabric, it can be awfully finicky. I mean, I sort of understand it when fabrics like linen and silk act like egomaniacal beasts, making all sorts of demands and expecting special treatment. "We're not like other fabrics, we're cool fabrics! We were made by Nature!! TEND TO US!!!" But I have to admit I find myself affronted when a synthetic has special needs, as viscose does.
The Rules of Viscose
One of the finicky things about viscose is that it can go haywire around water (Gremlin realness). Specifically, it does not love hot water, and will shrink and wrinkle when exposed to hot water. Exposure to water also weakens the material, which is why dry cleaning is the better choice when it comes to viscose garments. Finally, viscose has a tendency to lose its shape and sag or bag (relatable); this is especially true if the fabric has been exposed to hot water. All of which adds up to steaming maybe not being the best choice since steam is just … hot water.
If you do want to tend to your viscose at home, here are our rules:
Hand washing in cold water is ideal;
If you must machine wash, use cold water and the delicate cycle;
Do not wring or twist wet viscose! Once viscose becomes stretched or misshapen, there's no fixing it, so please be gentle with your viscose.
Air dry viscose FLAT. Do not hang viscose! The sagging and the bagging, remember?? I want you to treat your viscose like you treat your bras — I know there are still some of you out there shouting "BY THE GORE! HANG IT BY THE GORE!" when you do your bras, and I want you to adopt the same unhinged attitude about viscose. "FLAT! I SHALL LAY MY VISCOSE FLAT!" is the mood, here.
When steaming viscose, keep your distance! The closer the steam gets to the fabric, the more likely it is to sustain hot water damage. Hold the steamer at least six inches away from the garment; if you're pressing viscose with a steam iron, use a pressing cloth. A pressing cloth is this thing (you don't need to go out and purchase a pressing cloth, I just wanted to show you what one is. A flour sack dish towel or similar works just fine!)
One kind of fun thing about viscose is that is does hold onto dye very well in the wash! That is what's known as "washfastness," and we do not have time to get into all of that because I have to be at the salon to get my blonde done and I've got about 19 minutes until I need to get out of my sleepwear and into a shower. But I tell you that to tell you this: Viscose is washfast but it is not lightfast — oh ho! Bet you didn't see that one coming!! Lightfastness refers to a fabric's tendency to fade when exposed to light, and you can read more about that and the secret third kind of fastness (it's not at all secret — I've actually written about it here — I just like acting dramatic!) in my BHG treatise on colorfastness. It is extremely nerdy!
What Is Colorfastness? How to Test for It on Clothes and Linens | BHG, 15 July 2024
Speaking of articles, I have no earthly idea which article on steaming LW is referring to but I'm guessing based on some quirks of how she formatted her email that she came to me by way of CNN, and that this olden Underscored article is what she's referring to.
Does steaming your clothes really sanitize them? We find out | CNN Underscored, 18 May 2020
Before you click that link, peep the date and do some light historical math. Yep! It's a Covid article :/ Maybe one day I'll tell you about what being a cleaning expert during a pandemic did to me but today is absolutely not that day and at least seven of you are like, "Yeah no Jolie will never talk about that lol."
BUT BACK TO STEAMING! Here's how I'd like to close this out: I already admitted that I hate using a garment steamer — oh my God I hate it so much, you guys! It's so awkward and horrible and there's a very real risk of getting burned — A BURN RISK!!! — that comes with the job and it makes me so mad every time I have to do it. I actually, and I should not admit this, think I may have thrown my steamer out when I moved into Lillypad West. If not, it's stashed in a far away bin with my Scotchguard and starch. I should go check that, actually.
…
Okay I went and checked and lol the steamer and the iron are still there. YOU LIVED TO SEE ANOTHER DAY, STEAMER. (Actually this is good because I have a set of shams that need to be pressed, and I've been putting it off but the situation is reaching a crisis point.)
So here's what I'd like to hear from you: What cleaning and/or fabric care jobs do you absolutely hate? What drives so mad that you find yourself shouting about the absolute injustice of having to do it? Drop 'em in the comments, talk (SHOUT!) amongst yourselves, exorcize some cleaning demons, etc etc etc. I have a few other cleaning jobs that I get incredibly mad about, in addition to garment steaming, but I'm going to save them because 1. I think I've yelled enough today and 2. I really do have to get my butt up and out the door to the salon and 3. I'll include them along with all of your most dreaded chores in an upcoming AaCP: The Newsletter.
Work out your feelings, it will be fun for all of us! I'm very excited about this one :)
I hate hand washing and air drying and shaping sweaters so much. I've gotten rid of all sweaters except for 1 expensive ( for me) cashmere sweater that I never wear because then I'd have to wash it and dry it and shape it
First I must say that if our letter writer’s outfit is only 2% viscose 98% polyester it likely needs very little coddling and is probably fine with a home steam!
Though I often prefer an iron (I grew up in dc, chalk it up to a love of crisp dress shirts worn with suits) I work professionally with clothes and steamers are the default, so I wanted to come here to defend them a bit. They’re great in a lot of circumstances! There is no faster way to get clothing wrinkle free. The burn risk is real, but a little care in handling and/ or practice can help with that.
For best use, you want the steamer inside the item of clothing with the steam pointed upwards and out through the fabric, and move downwards as the wrinkles release, keeping skin clear of the line of fire. You can move at a 45 degree angle as you draw the steamer down and toward you to keep the steam against the fabric.
If your steamer tends to spit water, you can pull a sock over the part that emits steam (ideally in approximately the color of the garment in case of lint— light with light, dark with dark). The sock will absorb the water while letting the steam pass through. You’re likely to get more water if the angle of the steamer or its hose (if yours is a floor model) isn’t trapping/ blocking steam from releasing.
My industry uses the J-2 Jiffy Steamer if anyone is curious! Those things are the best. Hope a little insider intel helps! Jolie, you’ve taught me so much about cleaning I hope some of this helps the steamer be less loathed/ feared/ banished in your home.